Foundation repair in CO

Epoxy and Other Maintenance

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 11:19:18 -0500

When foundation walls are exposed during a foundation piering installation, or wall anchoring project, it can be an ideal time to check for maintenace opportunities.

You can choose to address problems that may not have been apparent from the interior of your basement. Once the soil has been removed from around a foundation, it's a good idea to check for three maintenance issues:

--Clogged, or crushed footing drains
--Cracks in foundation walls

Clogged Footing Drains
The average footing drain clogs with Colorado's silty clay in about 25 years--sooner in some areas. If your home was built before 1987 or so, it is likely that your original footing drain is clogged, if one was installed at all. If your home was built after 1987, your footing drain needs to be checked to see if it has been crushed. If your home is resting on clay soil, the drain may also be clogged.

Clogged or crushed footing drains will allow groundwater to enter your basement or crawlspace. Once water has found a way into your home, it is more and more likely to happen again. Footing drains can be replaced or upgraded to a French Drain system during a foundation repair, making it extremely affordable to have both services done at once.

Cracked Foundation Walls
Cracks in foundation walls can be epoxied from the outside or the inside during a foundation repair project for very little extra cost. Most epoxies are waterproof, which ensures the cracks won't weep water later.

Before Remodeling Your Denver Home

Mon, 23 Jan 2012 11:13:29 -0500

I desperately want to redo my kitchen. My home was built in 1954 and I’m pretty sure I still have the original burnt orange and gold linoleum tile under there somewhere! Every morning, I see the chipped dark brown tile backsplash and I take comfort thinking how I’m one step closer to remodeling my kitchen. I’ve been saving money for years for this project!

Before remodeling your Denver home, it’s important to have two key areas checked out: the first one I learned about the hard way—your electrical—and the second is your foundation. Believe it or not, your home’s foundation can adversely affect your remodeling project from day 1!

In my kitchen remodel journey, I discovered that the backsplash tiles didn’t quite line up correctly after we had the cabinets and counters removed. Upon measuring the room with items removed, we discovered that the northwest corner of the kitchen had settled three quarters of an inch. At first, I thought, “what does less than an inch matter in the scheme of things?”

Actually, it mattered a great deal! My foundation was completely ruining the plumbness of my entire kitchen! The remodeler gave me two options:

Get the foundation returned to level condition, then have him back to finish the kitchen.
Allow him to shim, shift, and realign the kitchen to make the kitchen level and fix the foundation later.

I decided to have an estimator from Peak Structural out, which was pretty easy considering I work for Peak! The Design Specialist explained that if I chose to have the remodeler shim, shift and compensate for the settled foundation, then I would not be able to lift the foundation later without a great deal of cosmetic and kitchen damage!

Can’t you just see it? I spend all this extra money to make my kitchen level and then I decide to sell my house. During inspection, the buyers discover my home has settled and they want it fixed. As the foundation is raised back to level condition, the whole kitchen becomes three quarters of an inch out of plumb! The tile backsplash would, most likely, look crooked and some tiles would be loose. The cabinets would be crooked, too, and things would be prone to sliding. My counters would probably be the worst part! Could you imagine if a marble would roll from one end of the counter all the way down until it hit the stove? On top of that, how in the world would anything cook evenly in my oven with three quarters of an inch depth difference in my cakes?

Needless to say, I would then have to rectify all these issues just to sell my home! After the Design Specialist calmed me down, I realized that I was probably being a little melodramatic. I have the right people in my life to help me make the best financial decisions about my house and I appreciate that. In just a few days, I will have four push piers installed in my home to raise my northwest corner back as to level condition as possible and then we can move on to the next crisis—I think that will be deciding on paint colors.

If you have questions about your foundation, you can contact our System Design Specialists here at Peak Structural. Feel free to contact us at (303) 243-3028, or you can stop by 600 17^th St, Ste 2800 South, Denver, CO 80202.

Types of Masonry in Denver

Mon, 09 Jan 2012 08:29:17 -0500

Clients often call us and request help with masonry. Often, it's confusing to know which type of mason a client needs, how to direct them best, and what to talk about. To make it easier, we had a great mason named Shane come to our office and teach us about the different types of Stonemasonry around the Denver area.

Types of stonemasonry are:

--Rubble Masonry
When roughly dressed stones are laid in a mortar the result is a stone rubble masonry.

--Ashlar Masonry
Stone masonry using dressed (cut) stones is known as ashlar masonry, whereas masonry using irregularly shaped stones is known as rubble masonry.

--Stone Veneer
Stone veneer is used as a protective and decorative covering for interior or exterior walls and surfaces. The veneer is typically 1 inch thick and must weigh less than 15 lbs per square foot so that no additional structural supports are required. The structural wall is put up first, and thin, flat stones are mortared onto the face of the wall. Metal tabs in the structural wall are mortared between the stones to tie everything together, to prevent the stonework from separating from the wall.

--Slipform Stonemasonry
Slipform stonemasonry is a method for making stone walls with the aid of formwork to contain the rocks and mortar while keeping the walls straight. Short forms, up to two feet tall, are placed on both sides of the wall to serve as a guide for the stone work. Stones are placed inside the forms with the good faces against the form work. Concrete is poured behind the rocks. Rebar is added for strength, to make a wall that is approximately half reinforced concrete and half stonework. The wall can be faced with stone on one side or both sides.

Crews Who Are Guests in Your Home

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 11:56:14 -0500

The Service Company you choose matters: Look for a company who understands they are guests in your home.

The Service Company that You Choose to Work for You Does Matter

Your home is more than just your biggest investment, it’s where you raise your family, come home to dinner, and relax after a hard day. It’s a sanctuary.

You deserve a service company that will protect your home and treat it with respect. That includes putting down rugs to protect your carpet, taking measures to minimize dust in your home, and cleaning up their workspace through the day.

Peak Structural is honored to be asked into your home.

You will be served by uniformed, professionally trained technicians. We’ll put down rugs to keep your carpet clean, dust barriers to isolate our workspace, and clean up after ourselves daily. BUT, don’t take our word for it:

Our clients rate us at a 4.66 out of a possible 5 on cleanliness and clean up practices for over two years!

They rate us at a 4.83 out of 5 for the professionalism and appearance of our technicians since 2008!

“From the initial estimate through project completion Peak Structural was a pleasure to work with. You arrived on time for each appointment and did everything you said you would do. The quality of the work was high and well worth investment. Thanks for a quality job!

Mitchell McCrary

My daughter Lauren also wanted to express her thanks (she’s begging me to let her J) so I’m turning the computer over to her:

Paul,

Jacking the house was not a ball, especially because my room was in the basement!!!! All the furniture was in my room, so I was sharing a room with my brother!!!! When I saw Peak Structural, I knew they were the one! When the men came to jack the house they worked fast and in snow and cold. I was able to see the way they worked the machines, it was really interesting. When they were done I couldn’t believe it!

Lauren McCrary

FAQ: Warranties

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 11:49:53 -0500

Does Peak offer warranties for the work that they perform?

Absolutely. The warranties are present in your contract and you receive a foil stamped copy for future homeowners as a courtesy.

Even though it’s rare, there are sometimes reasons that a company needs to return to your home to correct or adjust a foundation solution. Minimally, of course, a legitimate company will provide you with a warranty to protect you and your home in the event that the improbable occurs. But, what then? Has the company consistently, promptly honored its warranty promises? Or, has it frequently found itself as a defendant in cases of litigation or arbitration from disgruntled homeowners?

Are these warranties transferable if I sell my home?

Yes and at no cost to you or the future homeowner. Most Americans change residences, for one reason or another, every 3-5 years. When the transaction occurs, foundation repairs must be disclosed to the new buyers. Even if your home’s foundation issues are completely resolved, a buyer will still want protection against possible future problems. That’s why it’s important for the company you choose to warranty the home—regardless of who lives in it. “Lifetime” warranties are great, but if they are non-transferrable, they may prove, in real experience, to actually provide just a few years of protection and bring you no value whatsoever when it comes time to sell the home.

FAQ: Permits and Building Departments

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 11:46:48 -0500

Is Peak Structural appropriately licensed with my building
department?

Yes. We obtain the proper licensing for any municipal or
regional building department in which we are going to be
installing a project. What's the difference? Some areas
are served by municipal inspectors. Others, by
consolidated, county-wide departments sometimes
referred to as “Regional” building departments. Anyone
can throw phrases like “Licensed & Insured” on a
business card. Don’t take chances– contact your local
Building Department and find out.

Why does it take so long to get a permit? Can I obtain
the permit myself?
In most areas, if a contractor is hired for work that
requires a permit, the contractor must be licensed and
registered with the local Building Dept. A contractor
cannot obtain a permit unless their license is current and
in good standing. In cases that involve structual changes
to the home, an engineer must design a plan and have that
plan reviewed by the building department before they will
issue a permit. In some cases, this review goes very
quickly, other times, the building department may elect to
do further research into the project specs and this can
cause delays in obtaining the permit. Yes, you can obtain
a permit only if you are performing the work on your
home and you reside there. You are expected to know
the applicable codes and are responsible to insure that
the work passes inspections. Never obtain a permit for a
contractor—this is illegal and transfers all liability for
injuries and work to you.

What happens if a permit is not obtained?
If the work requires a permit and the project comes to
the attention of the building authorities, a STOP WORK
ORDER is issued and remains in effect until the permit is
obtained– typically, after fines and/or other punitive
measures are resolved. Work performed without a
permit is often discovered before the resale of a home—
this can impede or cancel the sale, and results in you, the
homeowner, being responsible for paying fees to obtain
permits and inspections to verify code compliance.

FAQ: What Happens Now that I've signed my Contract?

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 11:44:01 -0500

This question comes in all forms and tones. You've just signed a contract with your Design Specialist, you've submitted a deposit and you're wondering what happens next. Here's a brief description of what happens after
that:

1. Your Design Specialist submits his estimate to the office for approval. He fills out all the appropriate request forms for the engineer and compiles a list of supplies that your project will require. He makes all sorts of notes
about the specifics that you and he agreed upon. When that file is complete and accurate, you receive a phone call and email from our office, letting you know that your project has been submitted to the engineer for design.

2. The engineer, whether third party, or in house, crunches the numbers, checks the design, pulls reports and overall verifies that the proposal meets the design standards set forth by the manufacturer and the building
department. When he has finished up, we submit the paperwork for a permit.

3. Our Production Department takes over in Step 3 and submits all the paperwork to the local building department to get a permit. This process takes between 4 and 14 days depending on the building department.

4. Once the permit has been approved, we contact you to schedule the installation.

5. When an installation date is on the calendar, we call UNCC to get utility locates completed on your property.

6. As the installation date approaches, you will receive a handshake phone call from your project foreman. He's going to introduce himself, verify that he has all your questions answered, let you know about what time that
the crew should arrive and more.

7. The project is installed. There will be 2 inspections during the course of the install from local building department representatives. After the final inspection, the permit is usually closed in 1-3 business days and your
project is complete.

8. Once the final payment is received, we activate your warranty and send you a final invoice showing that you are paid in full. Voila! You have a paper trail that shows that your home's foundation repair project was
completed.

FAQ: Engineering Questions for Denver Homeowners

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 11:42:13 -0500

Why does it take 4-7 days for the engineer to design the work--didn't my Design Specialist already do that?

It can seem weird that it takes a while to get engineering completed, especially when your Design Specialist has already taken measurements and proposed a solution to the engineer. However, it's really the engineer who crunches the numbers, checks the soils, does extensive research into project and determines if the proposed solution will be functional for the problem that we're correcting. The engineer will interface with the Design Specialist and the homeowner to insure that the best solution is installed. All of this takes time to bring together into a proposal that can be submitted to the building department to obtain a permit.

Are the products being used by Peak designed for the soil conditions and problems that I am experiencing?

With so many products on the market, most of us rely on our chosen company to tell us which solution is right for us. Unfortunately, some solutions just aren’t ideal for the soil conditions present in Colorado’s Front Range and urban areas. For example, concrete erodes quickly when exposed to soil sulfates (naturally occurring salts found in the soils of many areas of Colorado), just like your sidewalk or driveway deteriorate rapidly if you use table salt to melt winter ice off of them. In the same way, cabled, segmented concrete piles can be particularly vulnerable to sulfite attack, and may not retain their structural integrity over the long haul. Another potential issue is when a product is used for an application for which it was not intended, such as using a square shaft pier to support a vertical load. These products were designed to resist pull out (tension) forces, not to bear the weight (compression) of a structure. Premature failure may result.

Thankfully, there are plenty of products available to remedy settling, heaving, bowing, or bending foundations that will work in Colorado's silty clay soil. Engineers take the unique soil conditions present on your property into account when designing the best solution to remedy your foundation problem.

Site Specific Conditions in Denver

Wed, 26 Oct 2011 10:15:54 -0400

Site Specific Conditions

I don't know about you, but I don't usually spend my life reading engineer reports about the condition of my home's foundation. Frankly, it's something I want to avoid if at all possible--unless it's really good news.

My job, on the other hand, often leads me to reading through piles of engineer reports trying to develop materials to help clients. I'll be honest, it's slow work. One phrase that trips me up each and every time is "site specific conditions". Engineering reports frequently use the term to describe why one portion of a home is prone to heaving, or why a particular project may require additional piers or anchors.

What are site specific conditions?
A site specific condition is something that can't be anticipated and generally requires changes to the scope of work. These situations occur because a structural engineer or evaluator scopes a property without destroying landscaping, drywall, and other finishes. It's generally a good idea because a client may or may choose to move forward with a project at that point and it would be extremely distressing to have to repair a torn up yard just because someone was investigating what was wrong with your home. Instead, the evaluator or engineer makes educated extrapolations about what's under the ground based on what is above it.

In some cases, the ground can be hiding something that requires the crew to adjust their plan for installation. At that point, the crew foreman must notify the evaluator and the engineer, so they can start working on a change. These changes will have to be sent to the homeowner for approval, the building department to amend the permit, and possibly even utilities or other location services for new markings to be made.

The easiest site specific conditions to point out are the following:
--After excavation is completed, a crack is found all the way through the footing
--During excavation, severe footing degradation is discovered
--During excavation, it is discovered that a foundation does not have rebar present
--While removing a slab, caissons or prior mudjacking are discovered

This crack continued down through the footer and required that an extra pier be added to the project in order to stablize that crack. Thankfully, the additional pier was approved by the homeowner quickly, installed that day, and a lift was still achieved.

Why do they matter?
Each of these scenarios affects the scope of work being performed--either adding to the amount of days on the job, increases to the number of piers needed, or an alteration of a repair plan.

After excavation is completed, a crack is found all the way through the footing:
--If this is a piering project, it will be necessary to place a pier on each side of the crack, which would mean an extra cost to the homeowner
--There is also a question of whether the property should be lifted, or simply stabilized

During excavation, severe footing degradation is discovered:
--This changes the scope of the project and the crew will need to reinforce the footing before any work can be done.
--The homeowner will need to decide if they are willing to have the crew present for additional days.
--The engineer will need to determine if the footing can withstand the pressures of a pier installation

During excavation, it is discovered that a foundation does not have rebar present:
--If this is a piering project, then the engineer will need to determine if the foundation can be lifted at all, or just stabilized.
--If this is a wall anchoring project, then the engineer will need to determine if the wall can be straightened, or just stabilized.
--The homeowner will need to weigh the risks vs. rewards of straightening or lifting if the engineer believes it possible.

While removing a slab, caissons or prior mudjacking are discovered:
--If this is a slab pier project, the increased slab thickness can present engineering problems
--If this is a tear out and replace situation, it will take the crew longer to complete the job and increase haul-away costs
--If caissons are discovered under a foundation, they will need to be cut before piers can be installed.

What do I do when confronted with a change in project based on site specific conditions?
Here's how the situation usually comes to fruition:

Best Case: Your installation crew finds a site specific condition that requires some sort of change, so they contact the Production Manager, Design Specialist and/or Engineer immediately. If the situation isn't a big deal, they will receive small revisions or instructions and you will be notified of what plan is in place.

Medium Case: Your installation crew finds a site specific condition that requires addition or subtraction of wall anchors, piers, or other equipment (like the cracked footing situation we described above). Everyone is notified of the possible outcomes and decides on a course of action together.

Worst Case: The site conditions are so severe that the project, or certain portions of it, must be overhauled, undone, or abandoned. This has so rarely occurred that I wasn't certain exactly what would happen until I spoke to our engineer. He said that at that point, he and the customer and the evaluator would go back to the drawing board and reassess the whole situation.

October Weather Has Been Hard on Denver Foundations

Mon, 17 Oct 2011 11:12:52 -0400

October is an unusual month for weather in Colorado. Some years, we have fabulous, unseasonably warm weather up through Halloween. The kids run around in their ballerina costumes and don't worry about getting cold. Other years, we experience blizzards and frosts that have kids huddling in winter coats under their superhero get-ups.

Hot and Cold Weather Shift Soil Movement into Overdrive

Weather plays a major role in soundness of your home's foundation and the weird weather that we experience in October can be hard on a stressed poured concrete or block foundation. Expansive clay soil is the most common type of problem soil found throughout sections of Denver, all of Littleton, and most of the Northern Metro area. Rain or groundwater cause expansive soil to expand rapidly and unpredictably. Sun and increased air temperatures with low humidity cause that same soil to contract. These fluctuations take place repeatedly in a small time interval in October.

Where Did that Crack Come From?

The soil movment is similar to the stresses placed on a balloon when you blow it up and let the air back out repeatedly. The balloon gets misshapened and the elasticity of the fabric lessens. The soil also becomes less elastic and loses it's original shape, or settling pattern. You can even see soil cracking or mud puddling when this occurs. The shifting soil conditions cause the pressure on a foundation to bounce back and forth. This leads to cracking, settling, and bowing.

During this time of year, it is normal to see cracks grow rapidly or walls to bubble in the center slightly. If cracks grow in width, or if they lengthen more than 1/2" during this season, it is best to have a structural specialist check them out. In most cases, cracks that growth quickly, or in width, signal that foundation conditions have become severe and need attention.

What is that Bulge in the Wall?

A similar scenario plays out for wall bulges that appear "bubbly". They are often signals of rapid soil expansion and contraction with accompanying water intrusion. Naturally, concrete should never look "bubbly", and it's very tough on the tensile strength of poured concrete to expand and contract frequently. After a while, that wall will experience cracks and more permenant bowing.

Signs of Foundation Settlement Inside Your Denver Home

Mon, 10 Oct 2011 09:25:24 -0400

Signs of Foundation Settlement Inside Your Home

Many of the signs you can see on the outside of your home are similar to the ones inside your basement. Stairstep cracks, for example, maybe seen in a basement belt from concrete block. In the constructed of poured foundation walls, vertical cracks are more common. Cracks in your concrete floor slab can signal foundation settlement, but may also be assigned at the slab alone has settled.

Looking Around Upstairs
1. Drywall Cracks-- cracks in drywall throughout the house are a good indicator of settlement, and may be more obvious in the uppermost levels of your house. The following signs are common: drywall cracks off of the corners of doors and windows, cracks that follow drywall seams, and drywall tape buckling, pulling or ripping away.
2. Doors and Windows--Again, observing what is happening around doors and windows is important.
Ask yourself this:
--When I put a level across the top of the door or window frame, is that normal?
--Do any of my doors or windows stick when I try to open or close them?
--Have I planed across the top of the door to make it open and close more easily?
--Is there evidence that a previous homeowner has done this?
--Have I had to move or replace locking or latching mechanisms on doors?
--Is there evidence that a previous homeowner has done this?

If you answered yes to any of these questions, chances are, you have a foundation settlement problems.

Signs of Foundation Settlement Outside Your Denver Home

Mon, 03 Oct 2011 15:38:31 -0400

Stair step cracking
Stair step cracking is often a telltale sign of foundation settlement and is very common in brick and concrete block walls. As your home continues to settle further, vertical cracks me whiten, indicating that the wall is rotating outward.

Chimneys
One of the more scary and dramatic signs of settlement is a chimney separating away from the rest of the home. Sometimes chimneys are built on the foundation that is not connected to the rest of the home, making it even more at risk for settlement.

Clues From Doors and Windows
Whenever an opening is cut or created in a wall, such as a door or window, it becomes the weakest point of the wall. Because of this, doors and windows often display the first signs of settlement. Three common observations include: doors and windows out of square, cracks extending from the corners of doors or windows, and the separation of the door or window from the frame or exterior finish.

Have you noticed newer chaulking around out side doors and windows? This is a common homeowner fix to the damages caused by foundation settlement.

3 Types of Foundation Movement in Colorado

Mon, 26 Sep 2011 12:44:10 -0400

Settle, Sink, and Sag
When the soil under your home shrinks or shifts, then your foundation or parts of it will settle. If the whole foundation settled evenly, you don't notice anything. But usually one part of your home settles more than another part and causes cracks in your foundation. This is vertical movement.

Bow, Buckle, and Lean
when the soil outside of your foundation wall expands, it can cause horizontal movement of your foundation. Because your foundation walls are not supposed to move in word: they crack, bowel, leaned in, push in, and sometimes slide Inn. Wendy's walls are supposed to hold up your house and everything and everyone in it, and they aren't even standing up straight anymore, well, that's not good. Night all. This is horizontal movement.

Bubble, Bump, and Heave
he is the upward movement of a foundation or slab pause by expanding or swelling of the underlying clay soils due to an increase in moisture. Heave is more common for slabs and foundations since the weight of the home on the foundation may partially or fully affect the swell force. Heave is another type of vertical movement, only this time, the force is pushing everything upward!

Hydrostatic Pressure and Condensation Increase in Colorado's Fall Weather

Wed, 21 Sep 2011 10:42:42 -0400

There are two concerns with Autumn's onset that effect your foundation: 1. Hydrostatic Pressure
2. Outdoor temperatures are lower, leading to condensation.

Hydrostatic Pressure
This Fall has come on quickly and we've had more afternoon rain than usual. This increases the pressure exerted by groundwater on our foundations. When the backfill soils around our homes remain moist, it increases the likelihood that our foundation walls will bow and bend inward.

The challenge in these situations is what happens next. The increased pressure doesn't go away as the ground freezes. This means bowing walls can actually crack as winter sets in! Thankfully, it's not a hard repair and it can be carried out even when the ground is frozen. For more information on fixing bowing walls, check out: bowing walls?

Here's an example of a bowed wall from littleton, CO. The bentonite soil exerted pressure inward after a heavy rain and led to cracking as well.

Condensation
If you have a vented Crawlspace, you've probably noticed that your floors have gotten chilly lately. If you're like me and have been battling a fall cold to boot, then you've turned on your heat. The reason that your floors are cold is that the outdoor air is being sucked into your Crawlspace. The cold floor causes you to turn on the heat, which causes cold outdoor air to meet warm indoor air at floor level. This leads to condensation on your subfloor, which increases the coldness of your floors. It also leads to bending, squeaking, bowing, and rubberiness of main level floors.

Cold floors and the accompanying energy in efficiencies can be remedied regardless of weather. It's best to get them fixed prior to turning on the heat, but it's never too late. These remedies will also ensure that you don't end up needing to perform repairs on your subfloor, additional bracing or beams, or other structural remediation.

Here's an example of the damage done over time to a crawlspace with condensation issues in Denver, CO. The wooden support beam has shifted and warped. The column supporting the beam has degenerated, and there is mold (white spots) on the wood.

Slabs are the Barometer for Foundation Problems in Thornton, CO

Mon, 12 Sep 2011 11:35:12 -0400

Slabs are designed to crack. They are poured much thinner than a foundation wall and placed directly on to the soil. That's why they are excellent indicators of what the soil around your home is doing. Slabs will crack under soil movement pressure and either heave upward or settle downward, giving you a good idea of what forces are at work on your foundation.

Above: Here's a picture of a settling basement slab, you can see that the slab has moved significantly. The evaluator noted in his report, "Slab movement of extreme magnitude. Taken place over 7 years. Homeowner has patched and repaired drywall to remedy cosmetic issues. Foundation has cracked in last 3 years, increasing in severity each year".

Below: Here's an exterior picture of the foundation in the same property. The foundation cracked after the pressures from the soil proved to be too much for the concrete.

What Causes a Concrete Floor Slab to Settle?

Cracks in a floor slab can indicate a foundation settlement problem. Sometimes, those cracks can be misleading. It is possible that while the foundation remains stable and in place, the floor slab alone is settling. Or, the slab cracks can be the result of a problem called heave. Slab settlement is most common in slab-on-grade homes and buildings where the floor slab is closer to the ground surface and therefore more influenced by the soil in the "active zone". If you see cracks in the concrete floor, larger than the width of a business card, it is indicitive of slab movement. Slab settlement usually occurs due to:
1. Drying and shrinking of the soil under the slab
2. Washout of soil under the slab
3. Poor compaction of fill soils

How Do I Know the Slab is Settling?

There are some pretty common sense indicators that slabs are moving. Cracks in the floor, especially ones dramatic enough to cause trip hazards, are the primary indication. Generally, multiple slabs will be affected, so if the garage floor slab is settling or heaving, then it's a good idea to check the basement floor slab and any slab on grade portions of the floor plan. Another easy to spot indicator is floors dropping and separating from walls, forming a gap.

The slab settlement indicators that are less obvious are:
1. Interior walls pulling down and separating from the ceiling, forming a gap between the wall and ceiling
2. Walls pulling away from other, adjacent walls
3. Interior wall cracks, commonly off the corners of interior doors.

Wall Straightening Now in Denver

Mon, 29 Aug 2011 09:27:51 -0400

In some cases, basement walls have leaned or bowed in severely and are in a dangerously unstable condition. Other times, homeowners want to straighten their walls right away so they can finish their basement. Regardless of the reason, basement walls can be excavated and straightened immediately rather than waiting to tighten the walls periodically. Sometimes, straightening the wall is the best option and it can be done at a fraction of the cost of replacing the foundation.

Wall Anchoring applications can provide immediately straight walls by excavating around the exterior of the foundation and removing the soil. Then, the anchors are properly tightened to straighten the wall. Finally, the soil is backfilled and the wall remains straight.

Bowing Wall Solutions in Littleton, CO

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 10:36:01 -0400

Are Wall Anchors all the same size and approach?

It can be difficult to determine which repair option is the best for your home, especially if you have more than one expert sitting down with you. Most foundation repair options are customized to your home, which can create a wide variance in project plans and prices.
One of my friends, Stephanie, is relocating and put her home on the market. She lives in Littleton, near Ken Caryl Blvd and she knew that she was going to have to do something about her bowing basement wall, which is about 3" out of plumb in the center. She asked me a question about wall anchors that got me thinking that other homeowners would want to know this answer, too!

Stephanie asked me, "Aren't Wall Anchors a 'One Size Fits All' approach?" The quick answer is no.

Peak installs Geo-Lock wall anchors, which have been designed to extend a minimum distance of 12' out from the foundation wall to prevent load from being transferred back to the wall. This isn't the case with all wall anchors from all manufacturers, so it's a good idea to ask your Design Specialist what the design specs are for the wall anchors that you're purchasing.

There are several factors that the Design Specialist needs to factor in to your basement wall repair project:
1. Height of the wall
2. Height of the backfill
3. Vertical placement of the wall plate
4. Type of soil
5. Strength of soil
6. Is the wall being straightened immediately or over time

If you assume the worst possible soil conditions, and assume the backfill is a height of 8', then you can be assured that a 12' anchor rod will be sufficient. This is because the engineers who developed the Geo-Lock system and other engineered basement wall repair systems create everything with a safety factor of two for the worst case scenario. In special circumstances where backfill heights are greater than 8', we have anchor rod extensions to adjust the system to proper safety factors and insure it's functionality.

Adjustments can also be made to wall anchor spacing, anchor rod length, and size of the earth anchor to ensure that the anchors will provide adequate holding capacity in almost any soil condition. In turn, the system can be scaled back to provide adequate holding capacity for more "ideal" situations to reduce overall project costs.

Bowing Walls in Littleton Can Straighten Immediately or Over Time

Mon, 15 Aug 2011 10:50:42 -0400

What if I want my wall straight now?

In some cases, basement walls have leaned or bowed in severely and a in dangerously unstable condition. Other times, homeowners want to straighten their walls right away so they can finish their basement. Either way, basement walls can be straightened immediately rather than waiting for seasonal soil fluctuations and tightening wall anchor rods over time.

If you want a wall straight now, which is the case in virtually all real estate driven transactions, then we recommend excavating the soil on the outside of the bowed basement wall, having the installation crew appropriately torque the wall back into plumb condition, and then refilling the soil.

Sometimes, straightening the wall immediately is the best option and it can be done at a fraction of the cost that wall replacement brings with it. Naturally, this option is more expensive than the gradual tightening process, so it's a good idea to go over both foundation repair costs when meeting with your estimator.

Loveland Homes Sitting on Clay Soils

Thu, 11 Aug 2011 10:54:21 -0400

What does my home sit on?

The obvious answer is "the ground". When determining what may be causing your home to sink, settle,

or sag; however, we look deeper. The soil layers that compose your "active zone" can be sandy, loamy,

or clayey. They can be different thicknesses and abilities to hold water. These layers were formed or

deposited there thousands and thousands of years ago when the earth was formed. Some layers may

even have been put under your home by your builder!

Soil Layers and Bearing Capacity

Typically, soil layers get stronger with depth. In most locations, you will find a shallow layer near the

surface that is organic, making it easy for plants and other vegetation to grow. Below that top layer, we

usually find clayey soils intermingled with loamy substrate. As the layers deepen, the sl eventually

becomes a load bearing strata called "claystone".

Clayey and Loamy Soils

Loamy soil is typically run off from mountainous streams and it tends to settle easily. The intermingling

of clay can cause problems like "heave", which is the upward movement of soil in expansion with the

introduction of water.

The "Active Zone"

The "active zone" refers to depth of soil beneath the ground surface that is the most affected by

changes in moisture as the seasons or climate changes. The active zone may vary from a few feet

below grade to more than 30 feet. This depends upon what area of the Front Range that you live.

The melt season in Loveland, in combination with rain saturation, can cause wet basements, heaving

foundations, and many other repairs for your home.

Wall Anchor Tightening During Colorado Heat Waves

Mon, 01 Aug 2011 02:27:13 -0400

What keeps Wall Anchors from pulling through the wall?

I recently received a phone call from a very concerned new owner of a home that Peak had installed wall anchors on. Last year, the previous homeowners had noticed that their basement was was bowing in about 3/4" on each side and up to 1 1/8" in the center. They opted to have five wall anchors installed in the property and tightened over time to pull the wall back straight.

The new homeowner received her instructions and was tightening the wall on Friday when she became concerned. What would happen if she tightened the wall anchors every season? Wouldn't the Wall Anchors eventually pull through the wall?

When the new homeowner called, we were able to put her mind at ease. Wall anchors can be tightened periodically throughout dry seasons to slowly pull wall back to a straight position. Peak installed Geo-Lock Wall Anchors that are tightened to a specific amount of torque that is easily measured and correlates to a force that is easily handled by the strength of the wall and the passive resistance of the soil on the outside of the wall (or backfill soils). Between the torque and the force of the walls, the engineered wall anchors are calculated to allow for seasonal tightening. This occurs because the soils dry out slightly and place less resistance force on the wall from behind. The decrease in resistance allows the anchors to be tightened. The tightening procedure brings the overall torque back to the installed torque and the system remains stable. In essence, the wall anchor tightening procedure is actually better for the wall than leaving the system alone would be!

Coloradan talks about Recycled Steel for Home Foundations

Mon, 25 Jul 2011 08:54:47 -0400

I have some clients who ask to have their foundations replaced. I normally draw their attention to two very important things:

1. The new foundation will still be sitting on the unstable soils that destroyed the old foundation

2. Concrete is a very energy intensive material to produce, due to the bake time and temperatures of limestone, which is used to produce Portland cement.

I definitely don't want to "green wash" every solution that surrounds your home, but I do want to draw your attention to something pretty about steel piering. For me, it's about the price of the solution--if something is energy intensive and labor intensive to produce, then it automatically costs more to purchase. If you couple that with the idea that the new foundation will meet the same fate as the old foundation, I'm going to choose a cheaper option, namely piering or anchoring.

Why is the Piering or Anchoring Option Cheaper?

The products that I recommend are made from steel. Steel is the most recycled material in the world and Peak Structural uses Foundation Supportworks products, which are constructed from recycled steel. In addition to that, it takes far less labor to install a pier or an anchor than it does to dig out and replace a foundation, so you save money on labor. Throw in the issue of a lifetime warranty for these products, and the scales tip easily to foundation repair over replacement.

Recycle Old Steel?

Recently, someone asked me if we recycle our old piers. I honestly had to say that I don't know of any time that someone has dug out one of our piers to replace it with something else in order for us to recycle it. This is because between the strength and durability of the solution, and the lifetime warranty, we've never had someone need to. I do know that our crews have committed to recycling the scraps of steel that aren't used in the project.

Will Steel Piers Rust in Colorado Clay

Mon, 18 Jul 2011 12:21:06 -0400

We recently received a great question from one of our new clients, Sarah. Her home is in Littleton, CO and needs a push pier installation completed. She was concerned that the piers would rust and breakdown over time. Here's the answer to that concern:

Dear Peak:

I'm freaking out that my piering on my home will fail. Won't the piers rust and get degraded and fall apart? Corrosion is common in my area of town due to the mineral deposits in our soil and I'm really worried about it. Can you let me know about the best solutions to battle this corrosive damage?

--Sarah

Sarah,

First of all, I completely understand your concerns. I've seen the mineral deposits on your sump pump and you mentioned that you frequently replace sprinkler heads because of these problems. My recommendation would be to look at the article below and determine if you would prefer galvanized steel piers over the black steel that we looked at before:

With steel piering systems, there is a great debate about whether the product can be installed with black, uncoated steel, or if it's necessary to galvanize the steel for greater corrosion resistance. There are many factors that can go into the argument and many site-specific variable that can influence the decision.

Here are some facts on corrosion to help you decide:

1. Everything degrades over time and is consumed by the ecosystem.

2. In order for corrosion to occur, three things must be present--water, oxygen, and corrosive material.

3. Deep in the ground, a steel pier may encounter water, but will encounter very little oxygen. Near the surface, steel is more likely to be exposed to both. Therefore, the deeper the steel is, the slower the corrosion process.

4. Galvanizing does protect and extend the life of steel.

5. Foundation Supportworks designs and analyzes our products keeping in mind corrosion loss rates provided by the International Code Council. All FSI products can be installed with either black or galvanized steel, depending on the site-specific conditions and desires of the home owner.

6. Either way, black or galvanized steel will likely outlast the components used to build the home itself.

Galvanzied Steel for Helical Systems in Littleton

Thu, 14 Jul 2011 10:02:40 -0400

Short answer: Yes. The Foundation Supportworks engineers design products with the criteria in mind and then submit their designs and test products for rigourous testing.

Why is Galvanized Steel Important?

Corrosion is a very common point of discussion for many specifiers who are considering the use of helical foundation systems. It is certainly a fair question, and although corrosion is a very real and complex topic that needs to be addressed by anyone who designs steel products for use underground or out in the elements, it is actually very rare that losses due to corrosion will govern the design of a helical foundation system. The reason for this has to do with the way helical foundation systems are installed. There is typically much more steel required to resist the torsion forces during installation than is required to resist the axial forces that the pier will resist while in service. ICC-ES AC-358 addresses the issue of corrosion and quantifies the amount of corrosion loss that needs to be considered for any helical product seeking evaluation, and Foundation Supportworks designs their products with these criteria in mind. More specific and detailed information about corrosion is available in the FSI Technical Manual.

Helicial Foundation Systems and their Advantages

Mon, 27 Jun 2011 09:12:05 -0400

Helical Foundation Systems are an extremely versatile deep foundation alternative, used within grade beams and pile caps in residential, commercial and industrial load applications.

High capacity deep foundation alernative

Ultimate torque-rated capacities on the order of 130 kips may be achieved with helicial shaft sizez up to 4.5 inches in diameter.

All weather installation

Helical piles can be installed through inclement weather and freezing temperatures.

Installed in areas of limited or tight access

Helical piles can be installed with hand-held equipment, mini-excavators, skid steers, backhoes and larger track equipment. The equipment and drive heads can be sized according to the project design loads, as well as site access.

Vibration-free installation

Rotary installation of helical piles does not produce ground vibrations, unlike traditional driven piles or rammed aggregate soil improvement options.

Install quickly without generating spoils

Helical piles do not auger soils to the surface. Therefore, there are no hauling or disposal costs for spoils similar to auger-cast piles or drilled shafts. For contaminated sites, disposal and/or treatment of disturbed material can be extremely costly or make the project cost-prohibitive.

Support of temporary structures

Helical piles can be removed from the ground by reversing the installation process.

Foundation concrete can be poured immediately following installation

Installed steel piles do not require a curing period like drilled shafts or auger-cast piles.

Concrete Basements in Colorado

Mon, 20 Jun 2011 11:28:14 -0400

Poured concrete foundations are the most common form of basement foundation found along the Front Range. This is due to the large number of newly constructed homes, especially ones dating from the building booms in the 1990s and early 2000s.

Why cracks?

If these homes are so new, why do we see cracking in the basement walls and floors? Concrete foundations have a high bearing capacity, but that capacity is not transferred to lateral slab pressure. To make this less confusing, think of your basement wall. It's very good at holding up the entire weight of your home without breaking. This is the bearing capacity. On the other hand, the basement wall will bow or crack when pressure from the soil increases pressure against then wall horizontally. This is the lateral pressure that I was talking about.

Since we're surrounded by moderately to highly expansive soils, it's natural to see cracking because the concrete is not able to withstand those forces. Cracks less than the width of your fingernail are shrinkage cracks from the concrete curing process and aren't a big deal. Cracks that you can slide a credit card into, or are tapered should be monitored. Cracks that grow or shrink seasonally should also be marked and monitored.

Why moisture?

If cracks weren't bad enough, poured concrete basements can also development moisture problems. While basement flooding isn't necessary the focus of this article, it can occur seasonally in Colorado. For more info about wet basements, click here.

The moisture that I'm talking about is the dank, mustiness that most of us experience. The reason we feel the chilly dankness on the floor and walls is due to concrete's wicking capability. Basically, concrete has little air bubble paths inside that draw moisture up and out--it's called capillary action.

Interestingly, painting or sealing concrete walls and floors doesn't stop the capillary action, it just prevents the moisture from leaving the concrete. You may still experience moisture cracking and surrounding soil expansion, even if you seal your basement.

If your basement experiences seasonally moisture intrusions, it indicates that your surrounding soil is also having these problems and it can lead to the cracking I talked about above.

Lifespan?

With cracking and moisture present in a concrete foundation, exactly how long will it last? Thankfully, concrete foundations are easy to repair, cost effective, too. They can outlast stone, brick, and block by many years. It's estimated that a concrete foundation can last at least ________ years.

Naturally, leaving cracks and moisture untreated will decrease the ability for a concrete foundation to perform correctly. It will also decrease it's bearing capacity.